A few week’s ago, we yet again experienced how important it is to have your pet microchipped:

One Saturday morning, we got a phone call from one of our regular client’s, informing us, that she had let two German Shepherd dog’s, that were running in Vaalpark’s streets into her garden, as she feared for their safety, and wondered if we could come and scan them for microchips.

As so few pet’s are actually chipped, we were initially skeptical, however, when we scanned them, they actually had microchips. We inserted the numbers into our microchips company’s (Back Home) database and found the name and contact nr of the owner.

Even more surprising, was the fact, that these two dog’s had not gotten lost locally – but had been stolen a week earlier in Roodepoort! So-at least one Happy Ending!

Since February 2016, microchipping your pet in the U.K. has become compulsory – we wish more pet owner’s in South Africa would realize not only the importance of having a pet microchipped, but also the importance of choosing the right microchip. In recent times, we actually do find that strayed pet’s have microchips, only to find that the chip is not connected to a reputable database – rendering it USELESS.

A microchip is about the size of a rice grain and is inserted under the skin between the shoulder blades – this is the area of the body, where it is least possible to move around, and where all Vet’s and welfare organizations will scan to find a chip.

It is not trackable by satellite-there is a number on the chip, which should be connected to a registrar of a reputable company, which then connects the owner’s details to the specific number (like an i.d. for your pet).

There are a lot  cheap microchips doing the rounds and in this case buying cheaply, might in the end be costly, as safety of the chip material has not been established, nor durability and not being registered on a reputable database!

Having your pet chipped at a Veterinarian or welfare organization will be your best bet to being sure, that your pet is indeed identifiable!

Costs of having your pet microchipped can be anything from R 250 – R 450. Make sure you as owner get a copy of the certificate and are able to change your details on the database if necessary. Just accepting that your pet is registered to your name after buying it from a breeder or organization is irresponsible.

Microchipping carries no health issues for your pet ( if it is a quality chip), and is not more painful that an injection.

The first and still one of the most reputable companies to supply microchips in South-Africa is

” Identipet ” and although they charge an annual registration fee, this is to be able to supply and  maintain Microchip scanners to all Welfare organizations in South Africa – so that you as Pet owner can be assured to be contacted, should your Pet be found. They have also recently taken it upon them to take some of the disreputable companies to court.

Another reputable microchip supplier is “Back-Home” , and as they are affiliated overseas too, this  makes sense for Owner’s who intend on migrating and taking their Pet’s with them.

Microchipping your pet is one of the most responsible acts, you as Pet owner can do!

Some 23 year’s ago, when qualifying as a Veterinarian, the first Veterinary diets were introduced to South-Africa, the brand was Eukenuba. Since then, many more Veterinary diets have come onto the Market, including Hills and Royal Canin and many more.

I must say, as Veterinarian, I have really experienced hands-on the benefits of feeding my pet’s Veterinary diets, as well as those of family and friends: my Father’s Rottweiler recently passed away at 16 year’s of age – astounding – but understandable since being only on prescription food since puppyhood (average Rottweiler age is 12), we see cat’s going into their twenties and suffering less from diet-related problems such as bladder stones!

Whatever Food you choose to offer your pet, putting some thought into your decision NOW, can produce big rewards over his or her lifetime and very probably help avoid costly illnesses caused by poor nutrition and feeding practices!

If you plan a balanced meal for yourself, it would consist of a plate made up of proteins, carbohydrates and vegetables all in the right balance – a nice piece of chicken, some roast potatoes, peas and pumpkin – mmmmm sounds mouth-watering! Now, let’s make up a plate for your pet made up of the ingredients in the bag of petfood: envision a plate filled 3/4 with low grade maize and some small portion of protein-derivative e.g. off-fall/ intestines/ beaks and feather’s………Not so appetising anymore?!

Never feed your pet something you would not eat yourself.

First and foremost learn to read labels of ingredient’s in your pet’s food:

1. The first ingredient on the label is the ingredient which features the most in that specific food – in South Africa this will most likely be the most available, affordable carbohydrate source i.e. maize meal – not necessarily the most digestible carbohydrate, but very good at bulking things up!
2. Check which protein is listed down the line: does it mention the source as a pure form (Chicken) or as a “derivative”? Derivative is NOT actually the proper meat, but any by-product of the protein e.g. finely grated feather’s or bones or intestines or even manure! (which regrettably feature in a lot of the cheap brands). Regrettably melamine, which is totally undigestible and even dangerous is often added to increase the protein amounts.

In the past there have been instances, where the Melamine has caused intoxications and kidney failure, hailing from a contaminated Chinese source – even in human baby milk formula!

To make some brands even more affordable some essential preservatives are left out e.g to prevent food becoming mouldy – this too can be life-threatening to your pet.

Ask yourself – if your pet food is costing R20/kg – what on earth could go into that food at that price? Is it realistic that novel proteins e.g. Ostrich which will be the most expensive cut in the meat section of the Grocer, could  be readily available in affordable dog food??

Buy the best food you can afford for your pet:

Commercially, there are few diets available that digest more than 50% – meaning that if you feed your pet 2 cups of food, at least 1 cup will be discarded as faeces – compared to Veterinary foods which digest at 80% to 90% – now your pet is only discarding 1/4 cup or less – this means your bag will last longer too and might not work out so expensive after all!

You will be surprised, that there are various affordable Veterinary diets available – the best is to go to your vet and have a chat about your requirements and your budget.

You should not find a commercial pet food sold by a Veterinarian – if so – is this for financial gain?

Veterinarians should be advising on diets which are good for your pet and not good on their pockets! Consumers don’t realise, that the mark-up on veterinary diets is much less than they can imagine and the diets are sold mainly for the benefit of your animal’s health – and so it should be!

Always buy a food compatible with your pet’s species and life-stage. Cats should never be fed dog food and preferably vice-versa too. Cat’s are carnivorous and are reliant almost solely on a good protein source, whereas Dog’s diets are more omnivorous – comparable to a humans with less protein and some carbohydrate.

Have you noticed how many cat food brands list a carbohydrate source as the main ingredient?

You may argue, that your cat loves the taste – but this is a “wolf in sheep’s clothing” – made palatable by adding fish oils etc.!

A high quality protein source is essential to keep your kitty’s organs healthy.

There are certain supplements which are essential to cat’s in their diet e.g. amino acids like Thianine – this will never be in dog food! If the mineral balance isn’t just right, your cat might be prone to bladder stones – and so it goes on and on……….

Puppies and Kittens utilise more energy than adult pet’s, which in turn utilise more than mature pets.

Some dog breeds are fully grown at 9 months and some like Giant breeds only stop growing at 24 months – for these there should be a fine balance between growing too quickly or too slowly.

We, as consumer’s are very fortunate, that all this research and homework has already been done by the reputable companies, who supply us with diets specifically for your pet’s life-stage.

We are even fortunate enough to have veterinary brands, which have specifically been manufactured with additives and supplements to support certain diseases, such as arthritis, kidney and liver failure and even epilepsy and dementia.

The “take-home” message is: Read the label and if in doubt speak to your veterinarian!

Rodenticides are most often from the group of haemorrhagic/anticoagulant poisons, which means that they are designed to kill rats, mice, and other rodents by internal bleeding. This is because they are Vitamin K antagonists and cause clotting disorders. Unfortunately, our pets are just as susceptible to these poisons as vermin, and seem to enjoy the taste!

Where do these toxins come from?

Easily accessible as it can be bought from any supermarket.

Poisoning usually occurs due to one of two reasons:

• Animals get hold of poison that was not hidden correctly, or that has been carried around by rats.
• Malicious poisoning.

Secondary (relay) toxicosis may occur in animals whose diets are composed mainly of poisoned rodents e.g. barn cats.

Examples of common products:

• Efekto Supa-Kill  (Bromodiolone)
• Rattex (Brodifacoum)
• Finale (Difethialone)
• Racumin (Coumatetralyl)
• Mortein rat poison (Brodifacoum)
• Muti-igundane Ratkiller (Coumatetralyl)

All of these products are so-called “superwarfarins”, compounds that were developed after rodents began to show signs of resistance to toxicity to first-generation compounds. What this means to pet owners, is that treatment with Vit K needs to be at much higher doses for a prolonged period of time to be effective, when compared to old poisons.

What are the signs of rodenticide poisoning? 

Depending on the dosage and the specific type of poison ingested, signs generally manifest 3-5 days after consuming the bait. Signs include:

• Initial clinical signs are vague
  • Lethargy
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Decreased appetite
• Sudden death is possible, without any clinical signs.
• Generalised bleeding e.g. nosebleeds, blood in the urine, abnormal bleeding from any wounds (even minor ones) etc.
• Pale mucous membranes such as the gums, which may contain blood spots.
• Difficulty with breathing and/or coughing
• Lameness and swollen joints

What should be done after an animal is poisoned?

An animal that is known to have ingested rat poison should immediately be taken to the veterinarian, as prompt treatment is necessary. The veterinarian will usually cause the animal to vomit – hopefully getting rid of most of the ingested toxin. Large doses activated charcoal will help prevent more poison being absorbed. And lastly Vit K1 treatment will be given depending on the type of rat poison that was ingested. Ideally the pet should be brought back to the vet practice after a period of time to check if its blood clots normally. This allows the veterinarian to see if the Vit K1 treatment should be prolonged or higher doses should be given.

Once clinical signs develop, treatment is extremely intensive and often animals need blood transfusions (to replace lost blood volume), plasma transfusions (for the clotting factors), oxygen supplementation and further supportive treatment.

Remember, a dog might seem perfectly fine for a few days after ingesting the poison, Therefore never wait to see if the dog gets ill before contacting your veterinarian!

Few things in life are as traumatic as finding a beloved pet that has been poisoned.  While most owners will be lucky enough to never experience it, it is still very important to know what to look for. In the newsletter of March 2016, Basic First Aid for Pet Owners Part 2, different types of common poisons and their effect on your animal were briefly discussed. This newsletter will take an in-depth look at Carbamate, Organophosphate, Organochlorines and Pyrethroid and Pyrethrin poisoning – common insecticides and acaricides (mite and tick poisons) that can result in severe toxicity.

Where do these toxins come from?

A large number of products are available on the marked e.g. flea collars, spot-on preparations, liquid dips, powders and aerosols for household use, plant and crop sprays, and granules for agricultural use.  Commonly seen poisonings include:

• Malicious poisoning where pets are targeted for house breakings and theft.
• Inappropriate use of topical tick and flea control products (e.g. wrong dip strength; putting a dog flea collar on a cat; using more than one product simultaneously)
• Skin contact in the environment (e.g. animals that had access to a lawn where ant poison was sprayed)
• Accidental ingestion (e.g. a puppy that found and ate slug and snail bait)

Poisoned sausages with black granules used as bait.

What are the signs of pesticide poisoning?

Signs are divided into three groups:

1. Increased bodily fluid secretions and excretions. Remember the SLUDGE signs! Salivation (drooling), Lacrimation (tearing), Urination, Defecation, GIT disturbances and Emesis (vomiting). Also included in this group is difficulty in breathing due to increased bronchial secretions and bronchial constriction.
2. Muscle tremors and twitching that could progress to severe muscle weakness and paralysis.
3. Seizures, behavioural changes.

Organophosphates and Carbamates initially cause a slow heart rate (the heart can eventually stop) and very small pupils. When the body tries to combat this, a fast heart rate and wide open pupils might also be seen.

Different animals present differently due to the specific type and dose of poison exposed to and individual variation.

What should be done after an animal is poisoned?

If possible, the source must be removed without delay, to reduce a continued uptake of the poison.

Animals that had skin contact with the poison must be washed with dishwashing liquid. The poisons are fat soluble and dishwashing liquid is ideal to remove the fatty layer wherein the poison will be trapped. Pets should be washed thoroughly, but not too vigorously, as not to disrupt the skin barrier and increase absorption!

If the substance was swallowed try to induce vomiting, but only if less than an hour has passed and the animal is still alert and conscious. This should not be done with corrosive substances. See the newsletter of March 2016, Basic First Aid for Pet Owners Part 2, on how to induce vomiting.

Seek veterinary attention immediately as poisoning can result in rapid death! Early treatment and an aggressive treatment regimen could improve the animal’s chance of survival! 

Keep other pets and children away from the area until it has been decontaminated. In case of malicious poisoning, be sure to search the area for bait. Put any bait, vomiting, contaminated clothes etc. in double plastic bags, mark clearly as toxic and ask your veterinarian how to dispose of it. The ideal is incineration. The area of contamination must be washed with dishwashing liquid, and never pool acid or bleach. Remember to inform the police and local security companies of the incident.

What do I do with a deceased animal’s body?

The safest way is to send the body for cremation as the temperatures reached will destroy the toxin.

Important: Remember not to use any Carbamate or Organophosphate based products (topical tick and flea products) on an affected animal for at least 6 weeks after recovery, as they will be very sensitive to the repeat exposure to organic toxins.

Next month’s focus will be Poisoning of dogs and cats with rat poisoning

Almost on a daily basis, a Veterinarian examining a patient has to deal with “Old wives tales” about animal’s which have been passed from generation to generation over year’s.

And then, of course, there is “Doctor Google” too, who tends to give an excess of information and often treatment suggestions, which can have a Vet with his hand’s in his hair!

Here are a few myths, we can “debunk”:

Dogs

Dogs with warm, dry noses are sick – A dry nose has nothing to do with a dog’s health. Normal canine body temperature ranges from 38.2 to 39.2 degrees. Veterinarians agree a dog may still have a cold, wet nose while running a temperature of 40 degrees.

Old dogs can’t learn new tricks – Old dogs and old people continue to learn throughout their lives. Very old dogs may not learn well because they may be impaired by progressive blindness, deafness, or motivational problems and decline in cerebral function.

A dog wagging his tail will not bite – The wag of a dog’s tail tells nothing about his aggressiveness. It simply is a sign of excitement. Other aspects of his behavior can tell more about aggressiveness such as ear position, whether the dog is staring, growling, or barking.

If a dog scoots across the floor, he has worms – Although dogs with tapeworms will scoot due to the itchiness of the worm segments, not all scooting dogs have worms. Allergies, diarrhea or even anal glands can be reasons for this behavior.

If your dog eats his poop, he has worms – Many dogs will eat their own poop as well as another dog’s poop. Although this is a disgusting behavior and pets can acquire parasites from the habit, it is not strictly a sign of intestinal parasites. Many mother dogs will do this to clean her newborn puppies and some pets will do it as an attention getting behavior. The problem may also be poor nutrition and a learned habit.

Female dogs should have at least 1 litter of puppies before spaying – There is no known benefit to allowing a pet to reproduce unnecessarily. In fact, there is evidence that spaying a female before her first heat may reduce her risk of developing breast cancer and other hormone-related problems such as diabetes.

Some dogs have jaws that lock – All dogs have the same facial musculature and structure — none has locking jaws. All dogs can be taught to be gentle — to release everything from toys to trash on command.

Dogs eat grass because they know they are sick – Many dogs will eat grass and then vomit, but this does not mean that they are sick. Some dogs even eat grass simply because they like it. It is normal for dogs to eat grass in very small amounts — their ancestors ate grass. It’s roughage.

Low-shed breeds of dogs are better for people with allergies – For most people, it’s the dander and saliva, not the fur that trigger an allergic response.

Neutering and spaying makes dogs fat and lazy – Eating too much and not enough exercise makes animals overweight. Same goes for cats.

Cats

A cat purrs when it is happy – Purring is generally the first sound kittens can make. They can purr by the time they are 48 hours old. While nursing, both mom and kittens can be heard to purr. But while purring is often heard at times of contentment, cats also purr when in pain and in the throes of death.

Cats can be fed an all tuna diet – Many cats love the flavor and taste of tuna. Despite this love, an all tuna diet is bad for cats because high levels of magnesium can increase Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease, as well as imbalances which can cause severe spinal problems. Feed your pet the best diet you can afford, which is specifically made for them.

It will keep their teeth in good shape too.

Cutting off a cat’s whiskers causes loss of balance – A cat’s whiskers are not involved in maintaining balance, only as an aid to feel their way through their world.

Cats have 9 lives – This probably goes back to ancient Egypt, where 9 was a mystical number. The god Atum-Ka had 9 lives and took the form of a feline whenever he visited the underworld, so the 9 lives became associated with the cats.

Cats always land safely on their feet – Cats are naturally flexible and have an amazing ability to right their bodies. But that doesn’t necessarily protect them from harm. Cats can break their front legs and jaw when they land on their feet.

Cats can steal a baby’s breath – Cats are heat and comfort-seekers. Curling up next to a newborn in a crib meets both of these needs. Perhaps the origins started because cat’s can smell the baby’s milk and try to get a taste of the milk. If the cat presses against the face of an infant who is too young to turn away the baby’s breathing may be hampered. Keep cats out of the nursery at naptime.

Cats need milk in their diet – Although many cats do like milk, it is not necessary in their diet. In fact, many kittens have signs of digestive upset, such as diarrhea after drinking milk.

Wild cats are loners – Feral cats are not solitary, they usually live as a group near a food source.

Cats are nocturnal creatures – Cats are most active at dusk and dawn when prey abounds and the hunting is best. The construction of their eyes allows them to see well in low light. Cats only need 1/6 of the light humans do in order to decipher shapes. However, they cannot see in absolute darkness.

Pregnant women must give up their cats – While toxoplasmosis is a risk for fetuses, a woman is more likely to catch it from handling raw meat or digging in the garden, than from her cats.

Someone, who’s had cat’s most of their life, will in actual fact already have antibodies against Toxoplasmosis.

Black cats are bad luck – There are nearly as many superstitions about black cats bringing good luck as there are about them being bringers of bad luck.

Cats hate water – While most cats hate baths, many find running water fascinating and spend time pawing at dripping faucets. The Turkish Van, is nicknamed “the swimming cat” for its swimming prowess. With a bit of preparation it is easy to give a cat a bath without being scratched and mauled

Reddish orange cats are almost always male – While the statistics are high that a red/orange tabby is usually male, the female gene sometimes sneaks in and creates a somewhat unusual red/orange female.

If a cat is calico, then it must be a female. – Most calico cats are female; however it is possible for a calico cat to be male, who are often sterile and not capable of reproduction.

Birds

Mother birds will reject their babies if they’ve been touched by humans – Most birds have a poorly developed sense of smell and won’t notice a human scent.

Ostriches bury their heads in the sand when they’re scared or threatened – Ostriches don’t bury their heads in the sand, they wouldn’t be able to breathe! But they do dig holes in the dirt to use as nests for their eggs. Several times a day, an ostrich puts her head in the hole and turns the eggs.

Penguins fall backward when they look up at airplanes – An experiment testing the story found that penguins are capable of maintaining their footing when watching airplanes.

I am sure there are many more myth’s and old wife’s tales – feel free to share them with us and we will try and debunk it.

This month we continue, where we left off last, with some more frightening emergencies in Pets:

Insect stings and bites:  An allergic reaction to insect stings or bites, may show up as hives (circular swellings, where the hair is raised all over the face and body). The animal may show difficulty in breathing  – consult a vet at once.

Wasp stings: These are alkaline  – Treat by washing the area with a diluted acid e.g. vinegar.

Bee stings: Try to remove the stinger with tweezers  – stings are acid  – bath the swelling with an alkaline e.g. bicarbonate of soda.

Snake bites: The site of the bite is usually on the head or legs  – it will swell rapidly. In South  – Africa snakes can be grouped into 3 categories: 

1. Cytotoxic venoms: The effect of  the poison is locally – at the site of  the bite, with little absorption into the blood stream and therefore usually not fatal (the area that is bitten swells excessively, bleeds and the tissues might even die off). Even so, veterinary attention for the patient is necessary. Snakes that fall into this group include all adders (except the berg adder) and especially puff adders.
2. Neurotoxic venoms: included in this group are the mambas and cobras,Rinkhals and one exception to the adders  – the berg adder. The effect of the poison is recognizable on the nervous system – there is little or no swelling or pain at the site of the bite, but symptoms include restlessness, in coordination and paralysis; death usually occurs due to failure of the respiratory system (breathing). Death may occur rapidly.
3. Coagulopathic venoms: include the boom slang and the vine snake. The venom causes bleeding tendencies. Blood transfusions are usually necessary.

Do not allow the animal to exert itself excessively, as this will increase the heart-rate and the venom  could spread more rapidly around the body  – if possible apply an ice-pack or cold water to the wound to slow down the flow of blood. GET TO THE VET AS FAST AS POSSIBLE. In case a spitting snake managed to spit venom into an animal’s eye, try to profusely wash the eye with clear luke water or milk. If possible try to recognize features of the snake, so the vet can try and identify it.

Accidental poisoning: This occurs most commonly when the dog eats a toxic substance, such as prescribed drugs or pesticides used in the garden or around the house. Some poisons can also be inhaled or absorbed through the skin. If the substance swallowed is not corrosive or irritating, try to induce vomition  – if no more than an hour has past and the animal is still alert and conscious.

Vomiting may be induced as follows:

• Hydrogen peroxide (2 teaspoons for a toy breed up to 4 tablespoons for a large breed).
• A large crystal of washing powder (sodium carbonate) on the back of the animal’s tongue.
• Syrup of ipecac (available from pharmacies).

Waste no time in getting the animal to a vet, especially if it’s level of consciousness are affected and try and take a sample/package of the substance if possible.

Common poisons and their effect on your animal:

Foreign objects in the mouth & throat.

Sticks and bones: may splinter when the animal chews it and may become wedged between the teeth

or the back of the throat  – be careful such animals are stressed and may bite! If possible keep the mouth open by placing a wooden object (e.g. kitchen spatula) between the upper and lower jaw and try and carefully remove the lodged object with tweezers/kitchen tongs.

Small balls: may cause asphyxiation if trapped at the back of the throat  – grab the animal around the waist and squeeze  – elevating the stomach  – this should force the ball back over the tongue (Heimlich maneuver); or press on the throat from the outside and try and push the object back up over the tongue.

Fish hooks: may imbed themselves, esp. in the lips. Don’t try to pull it out, as the barb will cause further damage! Usually the vet’s assistance is needed to tranquilize the animal, but if the animal is calm enough  –  cut the hook in two with pliers and push the barb end to the outside  – clean the    wound with antiseptic.

Fight injuries: Dog bites most commonly occur on the face, ears, neck or chest, cat bites and scratches most commonly on the neck or base of tail. Even though a wound may seem inconspicuous or clean, it is best to have it looked at, as cat’s claws and dog’s and cat’s teeth are highly infective and quickly cause sepsis and infection.

Ears: will often bleed profusely  – clean the wound and apply a pressure pad to stop the bleeding.

Eyes: may sometimes prolapse (fall out), especially in short-nosed breeds such as Pekingese or pugs –  speed is vital to save the eye! Keep the eyeball covered with a moist cloth and take the animal to the vet immediately.

Heatstroke: can prove to be fatal in minutes! Certain breeds are more prone such as bulldogs and boxers. The first signs are rapid, heavy breathing. The animal becomes distressed, salivates, gasps for breath and collapses. Take the animal out of the heat, pour cool water over it  – use tepid water first and gradually use colder water, cover the animal with damp towels (not too long-as it can heat up under the towel too) and offer it water to drink. If the animal fails to recover within a few minutes, take it to the vet.

From time to time, one is in a situation, where an animal suffers a serious injury or has a sudden onset of illness, and veterinary help is not immediately available, or where action is necessary immediately and a time-delay could mean that animals death. The following article is a guide-line only – do not attempt first-aid on animals, if you are at all uncertain of what you are doing, always have a veterinarian check the animal afterwards!!

• Make sure the animal can breath by removing debris from its mouth and gently pulling the tongue forward (be careful, as even the most gentle and loving animals could respond aggressively e.g. bite, in a stressful situation).
• Place the animal in a recovery position, with its left side uppermost, and keep it warm.
• Check for a heartbeat by placing the heel of your hand on the left side of the animals chest, just behind the elbow. Give cardiac massage if you are unable to feel a heartbeat.
• Stop any bleeding.
• Take the animal as quickly as possible to the nearest vet.

Moving an injured animal: An injured animal is likely to bite or scratch – improvise a muzzle if necessary. Use a blanket to lift the animal and if spinal injuries are suspected, carry it carefully on a board to avoid sudden movements.

Bleeding: Unchecked bleeding can quickly lead to shock.

1. Surface wounds – apply pressure at the bleeding point with your thumb or place a wad of cotton wool or gauze against the wound and bandage tightly.
2. Internal bleeding – the animal will quickly become weak and pale – keep it warm and quiet, minimize movement and get medical attention fast.

Artificial respiration: If an animal has stopped breathing after an accident
or drowning, you may attempt artificial respiration.

• Pull the tongue forward and clear away any debris or obstructions from the mouth. In the case of drowning, turn the animal upside down to drain water from the lungs.
• Lay the animal on its right hand side and extend the head and neck forwards to give a free airway.
• Cup your hands around the animal’s nose and breathe through them into its nostrils for about 3 sec to inflate the lungs – pause for 2 sec then repeat. Carry on till the animal starts to breathe on its own.

Cardiac massage: If the animal’s heart has stopped give cardiac massage at once:

• Place the heel of your hand on the left side of the animal’s chest, just behind the elbow. Place your other hand on top, then press both hands firmly down and forwards towards the animal’s head.
• Rapidly pump the chest 5 times in succession, then blow in the animals nostrils.
• Continue to repeat this sequence – do not abandon your efforts until you feel a faint heartbeat and then continue the sequence.

Burns and scalds: A quick response is needed to limit the extent of skin damage.

1. Boiling water or oil: Cool the burnt area by sponging immediately with cold water, do not apply ointment. Cover the area with a wet cloth or apply an icepack, go to the vet at once.
2. Chemical burns: Prevent the animal from licking the substance – if necessary muzzle the animal. Sponge the area gently with water to remove all the chemicals. (remember to take the container with to the vet, so that he will know what he is dealing with).

Electrocution: The only sign an owner may see of a minor shock (e.g. after the animal has chewed on an electric cord) is difficulty in breathing shortly afterwards. Check the inside of the mouth and lips for burns – and apply cold water.

More on this subject next month…

Welcome new year! We once again stand at the beginning of a new year – holding new 12 months and every day – a brand new 12 hours. What should we expect? That is hard to say – but may each one of us be filled with the enthusiasm to make the best of each new day – not on our own accord, but by the grace of a higher hand – may each one of you and your pets have a HAPPY AND BLESSED 2016!

What about.

Giving your pet the right nutritional diet: cats and dogs can develop a taste for many of the delicacies humans indulge in. Among these, chocolate certainly seems to be a winner. However, next time you think of sharing your dietary sins with your pet, you should know that this so-called treat could do your pet a lot of harm. In both dogs and cats, certain foods are known to cause health problems and should be avoided – these food include onions, chocolate, milk, table scraps and other human foods.

• Chocolate: The cocoa seed – theobromacocoa – which is the source of cocoa for chocolate, contains theobromine and caffeine. Theobromine is sometimes used in humans as a diuretic (pulls off water), heart stimulant and to dilate large arteries – by modern medical standards its safety margin is very, very narrow. In chocolate the theobromine quantity will give you a “lift”. During the second world war, theobromine from wasted cocoa meal was mixed into feeds for pigs and poultry – several poisonings were encountered. How much chocolate is fatal to dogs? Two dachshunds died after eating 600g of chocolate between them. Theobromine can very quickly build up in the blood, but it is very slowly released again – so small amounts can quickly build up to large amounts. Therefore death by chocolate poisoning may be delayed until certain fatal levels in the blood are reached. When poisoning occurs due to the heart stimulant, few symptoms will be present – death will be sudden. One chocolate for a 15kg dog is the equivalent to five chocolates for an adult person. The darker the chocolate the more dangerous it is.
• Milk: Some animals are intolerant to milk sugar – i.e. lactose, which means that they don’t have the enzyme, lactase, to digest lactose. The undigested milk sugar – lactose – draws water from the body into the digestive tract resulting in diarrhoea and vomiting. It is truly a myth that cats need milk – but if your conscious bothers you – rather treat it with the specially formulated cat milk available in shops.
• Onions & Garlic: Cause mineral deficiencies and that build-up of gas in the digestive tract!
• Coffee and fizzy drinks: contains many similar stimulants as in chocolate and the sugar is bad for teeth.
• Biltong: is too high in salt and may over-exert the animals kidneys.
• Raisins/Grapes: can cause kidney failure.
• Xylitol: in artificial sweeteners and sugarless candy and gum – can cause a life-threatening drop in blood sugar and even liver failure.
• Macadamia Nuts: reason not established – however can cause vomiting and dizziness.
• Avocado: especially toxic to birds.
• Mould: especially in hot humid months can cause liver and kidney failure. This is a concern in cheaper dog foods where the additive to prevent it has been omitted to save costs.

If the urge is just too much and you want to treat your pet – firstly stick to the available doggy and cat treats – now and then some cheese, yogurt or black Rooibos tea is not a problem. Also dog food is harmful to cats and cat food would be too rich in protein and fats for dogs. An exclusive diet of any one substance (e.g. only chicken livers) will also create health problems because it will not provide the balance of nutrients needed. Proper nutrition is an important part of avoiding many diseases and modern pet food has been scientifically formulated to provide all the nutrients your pet would need.
Just supplementing an imbalanced diet, may do more wrong than right, as some nutrients may play a negative role when supplemented incorrectly e.g.

• Magnesium: too much is known to contribute to urinary disease in cats – affecting the kidneys, bladder and urethra by forming bladder crystals or stones.
• Phosphorus: too much can cause bone problems and may contribute to kidney disease in both dogs and cats.
• Calcium: in excess can cause skin problems and retard growth.
• Salt: in excess can contribute to heart disease, kidney disease and hypertension.
• Protein: too much stimulates the kidneys to work “overtime” to get rid of extra waste products – and this may lead to kidney failure.
• Fat: too much in an inactive or obese – prone dog may cause obesity.
• Sugar: apart from dental decay, may eventually lead to diabetes.

It is important that pet owner’s learn to read the ingredient labels of pet foods-as a lot of “affordable’ foods are bulked with dangerous substances such as chicken faeces to increase the protein-content, and will often just contain animal derivatives and not pure protein sources.

Buy the best Pet food you can afford!

Commercial pet foods in S.A. are not regulated and most will, at the most not be more than 50% digestible!
The cheaper the food, the more your pet will need to eat, the less will be absorbed and more will come through in the stooles.
Most Veterinary endorsed pet foods will have at least 80% or more digestibility-so you will need to feed less and end up paying less than you expected-ask your vet for advice!

Vet endorsed foods are so specialised, that a lot of medical problems, such as bladder/kidney stones, hair balls and even organ-failure (Liver/Kidney) can be managed, just by feeding the right diet.

If you think your pet needs to lose weight, enquire about your local Vet’s “Weight-loss Clinics”!

Pet owners should realise, that they are faced with the responsibility of their pets health – a factor which, if neglected, may have a negative impact on their own lives (lots of expenses and heart sore).

Cat’s that are well looked after generally seldom suffer from any too  serious illness. From time to time though a cat may contract a serious disease for which there is no prevention and no cure. Typically there are 3 diseases in cat’s that make not only the owner shudder, but also the veterinarian  – these are virus diseases  I.e. Leucaemia, corona-virus and aids.

Feline Leaucaemia virus (felv): this is a serious disease in cats caused by a virus infection, which still remains one of the most important causes of disease and death in cats. It is a complex disease with no specific symptoms but many different components  – leaucaemia (cancer of white blood cells) and tumerous growths are only a small part, other diseases that may form part of this complex can include anaemia, ulcers of the mouth, skin lesions, reproductive problems such as miscarriages and weak or dying kittens (fading kitten syndrome), chronic digestive and respiratory problem, less ability to fight diseases and a weak immune system  – so many different problems can be involved due to the fact that the virus impairs the cat’s immune system and as a result there is nothing to fight other viruses, bacteria and fungi which cause further disease. The disease is spread if infected cats have direct contact with a healthy cat.  It is usually transmitted in the saliva, but can also be found to some extent in urine, faeces and tears. Licking, biting and sneezing are common forms of transmission. Food and water dishes and litter boxes are sources of infection. If a healthy cat never has contact with other cats, it is unlikely that it will contract the disease, however, a kitten which appears healthy may already be born infected by the mother and if one’s “protected”  cat accidentally escapes and unexpectedly comes into contact with another cat or needs to be kenneled, the risk of exposure to the virus increases dramatically. Signs which could be a warning as to the fact that one’s cat is infected include: long lasting difficult-to-get-rid-of  infections, unexplained weight loss, reduced appetite, swollen glands or gum problems  – the only sure way to know is to have your cat tested with a blood test. If the blood test is positive there are three (3) possible outcomes:

1. +/-40% of cats develop an  immunity and become resistant to future infections.

2.+/- 30% become carriers of the disease  – neither seriously  affected but also not fully recovered these cats can at any time be susceptible to the disease or pass it on to their off spring.

3. +/- 30% of infected cats are permanently affected and off these about  83% will probably die within  3  years of becoming infected.

Unfortunately  the blood test can not ascertain into which group your cat falls.

What preventative measures should an owner take:

1. Limit contact with other cats (this isn’t always possible or practical) but make sure at least that your cat is sterilized or neutered to lesson “contact-urge”

2. Limit stress –factors on your cat.

3. Have your cat vaccinated with the latest vaccine  – it may be a little more expensive, but worth it. The vaccine routine is best started at 6 weeks of age, when it is less likely that the cat will already be infected, with 2 boosters at monthly intervals and then yearly. There is no evidence that the disease is in any way dangerous to humans.

Feline infections peritonitis (fip): this is a contagious viral disease of domestic and wild cats world-wide. It is induced by a strain of corona-virus and affects one or more systems of the body  – either in what is called a “wet” form and a “dry” form. Even with treatment death is almost a 100% surety  – there is no official cure.

In the early stages of the infection the cat may show no symptoms, but there may be little “tell-tale” signs such as fever without reason, diarrhoea, eye infections and respiratory symptoms. This stage can last for days, weeks or months before signs of wet or dry FIP develop. In the wet form the abdomen fills with fluid and the owner notices the tummy swelling  – more symptoms appear as more and more organs are affected e.g. jaundice (yellow gums) as the liver is involved, loss of appetite, fever, depression (it is painful as the fluid accumulates) and the most distressing  – struggling to breathe as the fluid also affects  the lining of the lungs.

In the dry form most organs are also affected leading to kidney and liver failure and even spinal chord involvement  – this could lead to a slow painful death. Two other very rare forms of FIP also occur which can affect the eyes and the brain (cat gets seizures/fits and appears demented). Most FIP infections probably result from ingestion of the virus, but aerosol (in the air as with flu) transmission is also suspected. Mainly faeces and saliva are the big culprits. There is no evidence that mother’s pass the virus to their kittens (although infected mother’s may miscarriage or give birth to weak kittens), neither can matings or bites be held responsible.

Sadly there is no accurate way to diagnose the disease- a combination of blood tests and systems may bring one closer to an answer, but most cats  – healthy or not, when tested for corona-virus, will test positive, as there are many cross-strains, which are related, to which a cat will have had contact at some stage of its life. So, even a cat with a high virus titre in its blood, doesn’t necessarily  have FIP! (it only means the cat has been exposed to “a” corona-virus). Only a post-mortem will give an accurate diagnosis.  Unfortunately there is no available vaccine for this dreadful disease. One’s best bet is to maintain excellent hygiene (especially in the litter box), make sure one’s cat is not overly  – exposed to stressful situations (e.g. too many matings) and to boost and support your cat’s immune-system  – this means regular deworming, routine vaccinations and immune  – stimulators (there are mainly natural & homeopathic remedies such as  moducare/eco-immune/eco-colostrum). The virus doesn’t survive for longer than 3 weeks and basic disinfectant will kill it. If one has lost a cat to FIP, one should wait  3-6 months before getting a new kitten.

Feline aids: this virus causes an immunodeficiency by causing the body’s immune system to fight itself, thereby rendering the body incompetent to deal with other  infections (bacteria/virus/fungi). Infected cats have very few white blood cells (the body’s protectors) and their ability  to build antibodies against “foreign invaders” is majorly  decreased. Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) is commonly  called feline “aids”, as the virus in the cats’ has similar effects in a cats body as what the human virus has on a human body. There is in no way any correlation between the two and infected cats pose no threat to humans. In fact in cats the cause is a Lenti-virus; in humans a retro-virus. The virus occurs mainly in domestic cats world-wide and cheetah and lion (it is speculated that 80%  of the Kruger Park  lions are infected).  The virus is shed mainly in saliva and body fluids and the main forms of infection are through bites and sexual transmission  – for this reason roaming male cats tend to be at greatest risk. After infection there may be a short period of fever and swollen lymph nodes from which most cats recover. It may take months or years before a deficiency in the immune system occurs, leading to many different symptoms, depending on which system/s or organ/s is affected. Cats with aids suffer chronically from secondary and opportunistic infections of the respiratory, gastro-intestinal (mouth too) and urinary tract and the skin.

Blood tests are accurate to determine whether a cat is infected  – there is no known cure or vaccine. It is a matter of treating the infections as they appear and keeping the cat comfortable. Faids is uncommon in closed pure-bred catteries. Neutering your tom cat  at an early age, as well as your queen just seems to make sense!